Like a monochromatic cult of turbo-charged arctic warriors, the models at KTZ’s AW14 show stomped down the runway in heavy duty snow boots, faces frosted with silver paint and foreheads striped with slivers of metallic embellishment.

In keeping with the brand’s rebellious urban identity, there were echoes of hyper-oriental street style and sportswear. These were predominant in the liberally textured, oversized outerwear: fur-trimmed puffa jackets and loose-fitting hooded sweaters were accessorised with leather baseball caps and sturdy, wet-look barrel bags. Labyrinth-type prints, religious sanskrit patterns and occult iconography ran in ice white and crisp black across the entire collection, interrupted only occasionally with softer touches of grey or cream.

Exaggerated proportions were achieved through layering: ghostly parachute coats billowed above baggy shorts worn over leggings, while necks were swaddled with thick, furry velour scarves. The generously-sized, all-black fur coat was a bolshy slice of Street-Fighting-Man-tribalism, straight out of Tyler Durden’s Fight Club wardrobe.

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Words: Mary-Jane Wiltsher

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