It was a church-like sobriety which set the scene for Felder Felder’s AW14 show. Sat within the art deco grandeur of Freemasons’ Hall, the catwalk space was separated by an ornate wooden gateway, set beneath a low, wood-paneled ceiling that glowed with the warm light issuing from the stained glass that flanked the runway.

Under the creative eye of twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, the brand’s offering for winter looked to an earthy grown-up grace, twisted with a wink of rebellion. Texture was the buzzword: full length mohair cardigans swept the runway layered over barely-there chiffon shirts. Sculptural mini dresses were rendered in colourful quilting, and green high-shine crocodile separates were paired with ruffled feathers and hair. The ‘natural brights’ of Gehard Richter’s streaked paintings were a source of colour inspiration, with mossy, textural greens, pure whites and soft camel shades allowing the textured fabric to truly speak for itself.

The subtlety and success of the show lay in the juxtaposition of such close textured, warm fabrics with revealing, skin baring cuts. Sheer panels, midriffs and daringly low backs pervaded the collection – as seen in the streamlined midi dresses, tight body cons and also featured in a standout, golden-haired floor length gown. This rock ‘n’ roll streak broke up the collection’s naturalism, with a metallic silver catsuit, tuxedo suit and round pink sunglasses becoming memorable highlights.

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Words: Joy Starkey

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