Scheduled in it’s usual slot as the final show of the day, KTZ draws a diverse crowd from the world of fashion, art and the underground club scene, with front row guests including designer and club host Daniel Lismore, walking pop-art pin-up Pandemonia and Phoenix’s own Music Editor Kate Nash and Fashion Director Rebekah Roy.
The label is a collaboration between Japanese designer, Koji Maruyama, and Macedonians Sasko Bezovski and Marjan Pejoski. They have become known for their ability to elevate alternative underground styles to high fashion through strong conceptualisation and beautiful fabrication, so the catwalk invitation of tissue paper printed with ornate black lace created intrigue and anticipation. How would they interpret such an emblem of tradition, of prim and proper-ness?
The first look to hit the runway was a buttoned up, short sleeve shirt in white wisp-fine lace worn with leggings in a much heavier, blown-up rendition of the same fabric, which appeared padded and plasticised. A bodysock in this style – fine lace overlaid with a much exaggerated version of itself – was like a beautiful skeleton suit, and there was a black dress whose sculptural enlarged lace was reminiscent of Iris van Herpen’s exoskeleton dress. The Lolita style of girls from the Harajuku district of Tokyo inspired a pearlescent white and peach chapter of the collection. Mini dresses and skirts with matching bomber jackets were accessorised with huge, bubble-like pearl necklaces and earrings.
At times in danger of outshining the clothes, the shoes and accessories were incredibly striking. Bib necklaces were formed from blown-up, plasticised details of lace, and the same motif wound its way up models legs to form laced-up calf and thigh-high boots. The designers were inspired by William Morris’ Art Nouveau Ornaments to create spectacular heels with platforms of architectural curlicue.
This collection of underwater Barbies turned underground club kids signified a progression in both design and craftsmanship for the trio, who are certainly one of the most exciting labels to show in the main catwalk space at Somerset House.
Words and images by Charlotte Gush