With kookiness promised from the off in the form of foamy and disheveled invites, the Martine Rose S/S13 menswear collection did not disappoint. Inspired by Bernini’s ‘The Rape of Persephone’, sculpture was the main drive behind the collection. Working against standards and regulations, Rose wanted to embody the abstract form and use “fabrics that defy their nature” in the same sense as sculptures.
After a severe black-out, walking with intent and purpose, the identity of male models was kept covert (such a shame) with white stockings stretched over their faces appliqued with coloured patches, marching to a tribal drum beat in the white-washed basement of The Hospital Club in Covent Garden.
Dressed in pale denim shirts and jackets with matching jeans carelessly cinched in at the waist, the latter were sometimes alternated for more confident copper, patent snake print trousers. T-shirts were emblazoned with slogans like ‘Private property created crime’, and arty handprints in cracked paint, all conveying revolutionary messages. Foam sheets were used to construct straight-shouldered jackets and sleeve, and navy for coordinating trousers. These were well-dressed men you did not want to mess with.
Imaginative and slightly strange constructions displayed on models with the focus and stamina of soldiers, Martine Rose, a visionary, created a collection to express her own revolutionary beliefs in a creative and sculptured manner.
– Serina Sandhu