Who is Aitor Throup? That was the pressing question on everyone’s lips during an elegant champagne reception at St. Martins Lane on the third and final day of the inaugural London Collections: Men’s. After leaving the hour long preview in which he unveiled some of his first commercially available product, it seemed silly that such a question could’ve ever crossed our minds.
Argentinean born and Hoxton based fashion designer already re-branded sports brand ‘Umbro’, designed the English football teams kit and worked with bands like Kasabian on their cover art and music videos. Bringing all the elements from those experiences together his predominantly dark collection engulfed together all his abilities.
Called ‘New Object Research (a design manifesto)’ this wasn’t just a designer showing us a collection; it was a man showing us his dedication to creating. The creation was of innovative objects seamed and constructed in ways that have never been done before.
Sleek garments hung on models suspended on wires, and innumerable amount of skulls laid hanging on the ceiling, on clothing items, everywhere. ‘Mongolia’ showed us the intimate connection and affinity people from that country have with their horses, as he proposed a new national costume by creating a sculpted life size horse. Other themes throughout were the New Orleans Marching band, the effects of ethnical stereotyping, and military clothing.
The designer was introduced and lauded by influential fashion journalists Tim Blanks and Sarah Mowers in the preview before his ‘archetypes’ were unveiled to the group of guests. ‘The Evolution’ was a collection of stitched skulls, each of them attached to a year showing the idea and the project evolution through time.
What stood out the most for us was his approach to typical in menswear fashion design and the industry. He labels his work as timeless, refusing to attach it to a particular season or trend, instead only unveiling the project when it’s ready and documented its development.
Taking the aesthetics and conventions behind menswear design into new unmarked territory, the buzz around Aitor Throup shouldn’t be questioned. He said ‘artists create problems, and designers solve them’, problem solved.
– Walter Ugarkovic
– Images by Neil Bedford