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Royal College of Art Menswear Graduate Hwan Heo made a triumphant return to Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season with his womenswear label Heohwan Simulation in the Merit Award Winner slot, having debuted last season as part of the Ones to Watch group show. His refined but laid back aesthetic of clean-lined, often over-sized feminine tailoring rendered in luxurious fabrics is a strong signature; it’s easy to imagine his pieces adorning the racks of top international boutiques.

The opening looks were loose dresses or skirt and top combinations in midi-length styles, fabricated in cream leather and spliced with geometric sections of black and white photographic print depicting industrial scenes. A full length grey wool trench coat followed some interestingly proportioned suiting; a cropped double breasted jacket in putty with layers of shirting cascading from underneath was highlighted by a lime green bib, a shade which recurred in waffle knit jackets and in blocks on starched shifts. Orange hues were used to accent otherwise sandy toned looks, and the half-sleeved dress coat in this shade was a stand out piece.

The most directional looks of the collection came in perforated black and dove grey leather. Midi skirts with reinforced zip pockets and solid leather hem panels inspired serious lust, as did their matching over-sized bomber jackets with sculptural high collars. Black sleeveless shift dresses came woven through their perforations with thin leather strips in orange and putty. A utilitarian jumpsuit cropped below the knee recalled the industrial theme of the photographic print.

It was an accomplished collection from a designer who surely deserves the sky rocket trajectory he has followed since graduating in 2007. Well designed and beautifully made, Hwan Heo’s clothes speak for themselves, but are certainly something to shout about.

Words and images by Charlotte Gush

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