The UCA Epsom designers certainly knew how to tastefully edge-up outfits with panel inserts of waxed and patent leathers by the likes of Kelly Bromfield and James Walker. Kelly created a biker chic collection using utility fabrics and gold zips, but twisted them with forest green, botanical prints and emerald velvet jumpers with glitzy embellishments. Walker opted for rural chic using tweeds and leather pedal-pushers. He also created innovative circular cushion-shaped shoulders and vests perfect as storage for buskers and travelers.
James Kelly used tension-building music to present a moody collection of asymmetric, masculine-tailored gowns that dramatically billowed as the models moved. With a minimalist colour scheme of black and zesty green, Kelly made fleece seriously wearable and desirable. Irina Voinea followed with a collection reminiscent of the 1983 film ‘Scarface’ with peach and white leather suits and matching fedoras. Tony Montana eat your heart out.
Ulyana Danyleyko dressed stylish robbers by focusing on monochrome stripes in a tailored suit before descending into frothy prom dresses in strips of muted greys and beiges. From thief to fantasy, Amy Nichols’ models looked like elegant sea goddesses with coral tiaras, silver and aquatic colours, chiffon drapery inspired by waves and intricate knots and ties influenced by shells.
Other inspiring looks came from Cecilia Lake’s use of patterned rugs inoffensively incorporated into delicate dresses and Eve Token’s ghetto-fabulous styling instructing the audience to “wake the fuck up”. One of the bolder collections. Finally, Mariapia Mineo breathed new life into the 18-designer collection when her models walked out with an energetic sway and noticeable swagger while toting pleated and fanned patent leather in shades of red wine.
– Serina Sandhu
– Catwalk images by Simon Armstrong