Born in the Netherlands and based in the UK, designer Christian Blanken longs to create silhouette, quality and strong detail with a limited use of intense colour. This SS13, he achieved this and more. With a great deal of research going into each and every collection the fabric, detailing and tailoring are always top priority.
Using his signature sportswear aesthetic, the Russian Constructivist movement heavily influenced the collections colour story, with a palette based on the works of Rodchenko and Stepanova; coral, lemon and metallics were finished on a foundation of black, white and grey. Combining luxurious fabrics like python on bags and shorts to leather jackets, with the sharp tailoring Blanken is so skilled at, each garment was unified and meticulously detailed.
Sheer fabrics, high neck constructs and slit detail stayed true to the Constructivist influence for linear design. Experimenting with hard edges and Sixties prints, the single print in the entire collection – an emblematic star – was almost muted from overlapped repetition, and could be found on tangerine and lemon flowing shorts and t-shirts, with a consistent rolled up sleeve. Pearly whites, coffee tones and olive added to the range of colours that created a palette of understated sharpness. Draped dresses with pockets and metallic detailing closed the show to a lusting crowd. Hair was slick and shoes were simple, eyewear was opted with thick temples. A pant and dress coat were revealed for the more typical English summer. Eye popping pink and cool corals broke down the broad palette and attention was drawn to the waist in the form of a playsuit.
Promising functionality, fit and finish from a desire to renew wardrobe staples, Blanken created a cool SS13 collection every women can covet.
Words by Samantha Goodwin