“I’ve never seen anything like that before”.
During Fashion Week it is so easy to get lost in a routine, sitting at show after show, hardly looking at collections and seeing the whole thing through the lens of an iPhone. However within an over capacity Vauxhall Fashion Scout, we began to take in the deep breath needed in anticipation of Pam Hoggs SS13 showcase, aptly named S.O.S.
Taking their seats on the front row pre-show were the likes of Judy Blame, Fred Butler, Nick Cave, Nick Rhodes and Bobby Gillespie, all of whom are personal friends and fans of the legendary Hogg. As the lights shut off, a model donned in white tulle and light bulbs attached to herself cleared the runway to make room for a barley clothed, more smattered Alice Dellal, who slowly walked in what appeared to be the outer layer of a nurses uniform, showing nudity from all angles. After a burst of tulle confections, a model in a metallic air hostess uniform stood proudly at the top of the runway, with the second look of the metallic prints walked by identical twins holding hands.
Ending the show with several show-stopping pieces, the rapturous applause began way before the final piece even hit the catwalk, and a standing ovation began before Pam Hogg had even taken her bow; the sign of a strong catwalk collection is when one loves the garment on show yet can’t wait for the next one and each eclipses the last. The show itself was a homage to the band who recently split, beginning with S.C.U.M Whitechapel and closing to the perfect punk classic ‘Another Girl, Another Planet’ by The Only Ones. Models walked solemnly during the collection, yet when they took their final walk some were pulling each others hair and waving into the audience.
The show upheld that unparalleled punk ethos which has always played such a large role in British Fashion since the mid Seventies, excessively with designers such as Pam Hogg. The importance of creating an experience which allow peoples to see things they possibly thought they’d never see (Alice Dellal naked?) is brought to London Fashion Week by innovators such as Pam Hogg and the reason it remains at the top of world fashion.
Words by Declan Higgins